There’s been a lot of news lately about the corner of Fourth and Chestnut Streets as Bill Weyland and City Properties Group announced plans to renovate the old Caperton Block and build a parking garage with a boutique hotel and apartments. What makes these announcements so exciting is that the current state of this intersection is, to put it lightly, lacking. That wasn’t always the case, however, as the corner was once among the most grand in Louisville.
The loss of important buildings at this intersection has been tremendous and is one of the reasons why I advocate for historic preservation. It’s hard to imagine what the city was thinking when these buildings were deemed worthy of the wrecking ball. They are forever lost but should provide valuable lessons on why we should value our past. Imagine how much easier it would be today to revitalize Downtown is we had only a few of these buildings back.
Pictured in the engraving above (and in photos after the click) is the old U.S. Post Office and Customs House built in 1892 on the northeast corner. The absolutely monumental stone structure marked a trend of businesses expanding from Main and Market Streets into the largely residential area to the south. The Renaissance Revival structure contained one of Louisville’s first atriums that served as the site to many events.
In my own opinion, this was the finest building in Louisville ever to be demolished (and really one of the best ever built) and it’s a little depressing every time I see a photo of it. According to the book Louisville by John Findling, the structure was abandoned in 1933 when a new facility, still standing, was built at 6th and West Broadway. After sitting vacant for a decade, the structure was demolished in 1943. Some in the community decried the demolition instead proposing a cultural center or museum but the majority of Louisville considered the building an eyesore and home to pesky starlings and pigeons.
Demolition cost $100 and supplied “more than 9 million tons of iron and steel, 80,000 pounds of copper, 20,000 pounds of brass and bronze, and 20,000 pounds of lead” for World War II. If you can bear it, check out a couple photos of the demolition underway here and here. The site was briefly converted into Lincoln Park but was again cleared in 1950 and redeveloped into a JC Penney and Grants department stores and a parking garage which still stand today on the site and are currently for sale.
If that’s not bad enough, the grand 2,000 seat Masonic Theater also was on this intersection just off the corner next to the Henry Clay (photos after the click). The massive theater opened in 1902 as a stage theater and was the site of the first true talking motion picture in the 1920s. The theater was designed by the firm of Dodd & Dodd and was also known as the Shubert and later the Strand. Operations closed in 1952 and it was demolished for a parking lot in 1956. Check out a view of the auditorium and a view of its demolition.
One report of the opening night at the Masonic Theater read, “It was a scene to dazzle and to please. It was a theater to be proud of. It was enough to make not only the builder’s glad, but to send the people generally into enthusiasm. Few in the South can compare with this Masonic in design, decoration, comfort and all the other things that make for a complete theater building.” (via Actors, Audiences, and Historic Theaters of Kentucky)
Many other large buildings were demolished in the area and the Atherton Building which housed the large Mary Anderson Theater has been substantially altered but still stands. Luckily, we have largely learned the error of our ways but it’s unfortunate we had to lose so much along the way.
- Fourth Street in Early 20th Century (BS File Postcard)
- Fourth & Chestnut Street Long Ago (BS File Postcard)
- Old Post Office & Customs House (BS File Postcard)
- Masonic Theater on Chestnut Street (BS File Postcard)
- Henry Clay with view of Masonic Theater (BS File Postcard)
- Old Post Office & Customs House (BS File Postcard)
- Atherton Building & Mary Anderson Theater (BS File Postcard)
- Fourth Street looking north (BS File Postcard)
- Fourth Street north from Chestnut Street in 1960s (BS File Postcard)
- Old Post Office & Customs House (BS File Postcard)
- Old Post Office & Customs House (BS File Postcard)
- Chestnut Street West from Third Street (BS File Postcard)
- Old Post Office & Customs House (via Glimpse of Louisville)
- Fourth Street from Chestnut Street in 2002 (BS File Photo)
- Parking Garage on site of old Post Office (BS File Photo)
- Fourth from Chestnut Street today (Courtesy Diane Deaton-Street)
































Josh Linke
December 11th, 2009
6:50 pm
I feel sick
David Barhorst
December 11th, 2009
7:38 pm
There are people alive today who still feel the same way when they watched it razed…
Diane
December 11th, 2009
7:54 pm
Yes, those demolition photos make me want to cry…
Michael Long
December 12th, 2009
6:47 pm
The Masonic Theater was one of the places that made yelling “Fire” in a crowded theater a bad idea. On October 22, 1904, The nitrate film in a movie projector (not an Edison model) exploded and caught fire. In the melee to escape, a number of people were severely injured. Still, change in attitudes toward public safety would not take place for several years until after 1907 when the US averaged nearly seven theater fires a week.
Ken Wilson
December 12th, 2009
9:41 pm
“don’t it always seem to go
That you don’t know what you’ve got
Till it’s gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot”
I’m not old enough to remember that post office, but I remember 4th Street when it still mattered. I remember the Memorial Auditorium, where Marion Anderson performed. I remember seeing the Modern Jazz Quartet there when I was about 15. Fourth Street from Kentucky to Broadway was that auditorium, majestic churches, the wonderful main library – and a Cadillac showroom. From Broadway to Chestnut was a theatre district for first-run movies: the Ohio, Kentucky (they were sort of B-level movies), Loew’s (the Palace), the Rialto, the Marian Anderson: varying degrees of opulence. Also on that street, a wonderful bookstore, Readmore, and Shackleton’s Music… and the Blue Boar, a great cafeteria.
4th and Chestnut was a a kind of jewelry district – Will Sales and Lemon’s, but also a big drug store (SE corner of 4ht and Chestnut).
The interesting thing to me in memory is that the stretch from Chestnut to just beyond Guthrie was always sort of second-rate compared to North and South of it: Grant’s was a kind of early K-Mart. Families always did classy Christmas shopping at Stewart’s (4th and then Walnut), Selman’s, Kaufman’s – all from Walnut to Jefferson. After Jeff, it became wholesaley, and dubious. Liberty News, on Liberty, was the only place I could find DownBeat magazine (when you’re a white mid-teen jazz fan in the fifties and sixties in Louisville, you have to make do in a number of ways)… and I could also sneak a peak at girlie mags there. Shops that catered to African-Americans were down around there… places I thought were cool, but, hey, I was a white teenager from the Highlands…
Fourth Street WAS Louisville 50 years ago…
TJ
December 14th, 2009
11:27 am
The sub-urbanites decided that St. Matthews and the Summit are where they want to do their fancy shopping and movie viewing now.
David Barhorst
December 15th, 2009
4:28 pm
For a good sense of scale of the Old Post Office check out this pic…
http://oldlouisville.com/Ruins/PO/PO1920.htm